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PUPPY WORKOUT ROUTINE April Rifenburg There are lots of new pups and new owners out there. Dogs are social animals, are not democratic, want and need a leader. The following information is highly effective for controlling and bonding with your puppy. Do several times per week. The first 3 can be done in a few minutes.
Gentling Exercises: Pick up and cradle the puppy in your arms before he/she grows too large. Hold for a minute or two with the goal of a relaxed, non-struggling puppy. Lay the pup on his side. Stroke and handle body, legs - especially the head, front legs, belly, tail. Manipulate feet and toes. Hold muzzle, look in mouth and ears. Your puppy may struggle. Begin with a few seconds of Gentling. Gradually increase time to several minutes as pup becomes more relaxed and accepting of this procedure. This conditioning will make your pup easier to train. Being restrained and handled helps pup to accept you as pack leader. Pup learns that the human hand is no threat. Gentling gives the owner confidence with dog and helps with grooming, nail clipping, teeth brushing, cleaning ears, giving meds, and veterinarian visits. Each family member should do this with the puppy. Do not allow a puppy or dog to bite or mouth you. Children need adult supervision when working with dogs. Struggling and uncooperative dogs need this exercise done more frequently. Gentling will make your pup easier to live with and a more likeable adolescent!
Bite Inhibition Exercise: Do this while Gentling your puppy. This teaches pup to have an inhibited bite and not to bite hard. Mama dog and littermates taught your puppy bite inhibition. You need to continue the process as the puppy grows. Place your hand or finger in pup's mouth. If he bites down, whimper in a high pitched voice or say "ouch!" or "ehh!". Voice tone needs to be a tone that the puppy will respond to. Pup will release pressure. The goal is to receive no pressure from pup's teeth. Condition pup to accept you handling his muzzle and gently holding it closed. Eventually, your puppy will accept your hands holding his muzzle without struggling or mouthing. This exercise will not affect a dog’s instinct to protect its territory.
A dog uses it's mouth like a hand, to pick up and carry things, to hold things, to push or pull things, to grasp things, to feel and to taste things. Do not play tug-of-war type games with your puppy (at least for a while), especially if it is mouthy and bitey. Such games encourage a puppy to bite, to be dominant and bossy, and to try to control you. Never allow a puppy or dog to mouth or bite at you or other people in play.
All pups mouth and bite to some extent and need to go through this stage of development. Pups that are extremely bitey on your hands or person need some extra steps taken. Different things work on different pups. You have to find something that is effective on your particular puppy. When pup bites your hands, arms, legs, give him/her a toy or chew object; praising when puppy takes the offered object. Or ignore pup by folding your arms and turning away from him/her. Or quit playing with the pup and put it outside. When pup is calm, give your attention again. This approach requires much consistency.
Pups that are high drive, very assertive and pushy may need a more physical method. A voice correction or a physical reminder along the lines of what a mama dog would do may be in order. Try holding the skin of pup's upper lip with your fingers, or wedging a bent forefinger in the pup's mouth preventing closure, or encircle the muzzle with your thumb and index finger, holding the mouth gently closed. After watching my adult female successfully "correct" an obnoxious pup without any harm, I discovered an excellent physical correction for two of my own "very bitey and hurtful" pups. With my thumb and index finger making a "V," I would surprise the gnawing pup by quickly placing and holding the "V" at the base of the muzzle with fingertip and thumbtip touching the ground, not letting pup's head move until she relaxed. The gesture brought instant success. It does not hurt the puppy at all, and sure got their respect, just like with a mama dog. Avoid dangling your hands and clothes at these extra mouthy types as this entices such a pup to grab.
Eye Contact: Look "softly" into pups' eyes, touch top of muzzle, then touch up to the side of your own eye -- telling him "watch" or "look." Maintain Soft, friendly eye contact for 3 seconds. This teaches pup to pay attention to his pack leader making training and discipline easier. The benefits are many. (Do not stare threateningly at your dog, as dogs consider that type of stare to be a reprimand or a challenge.) Eye contact is easier for some dogs than others, as many dogs do this naturally.
Come: Call your puppy to you several times a day. Use a "happy" voice. Kneeling down will encourage the pup to come to you. Reward with food tidbit, petting, toy, dinner, and/or lots of verbal praise. This teaches pup that coming to you is always a pleasurable experience. Never scold your dog for coming to you, and never call your dog to you for punishing. Stroke and handle pup’s neck and collar often to condition pup to being reached for. Give food treat while holding collar or neck on many occasions as pup grows up. I do this also with my adult dogs. When your puppy or dog comes to you even without being called, handle his neck and praise him. Play Come Games between family members. Call pup back and forth several times. Reward with food treat or toy, petting, and verbal praise. Do not overdo and bore puppy. Leave him wanting more! Surprise Puppy: When pup is not with you and is busy elsewhere, call pup to you. Praise when pup comes giving him a treat or toy. Play briefly, then let pup go back to its own pursuits. Repeat. Do this frequently throughout your puppy's first 18 months. Runaway and Come: One person holds pup, while other person runs away while enthusiastically calling. To encourage the puppy, the person running away enticingly shows pup the motivator. Pup is let go to chase after person who is calling. Praise and reward. Hide and Seek: Same as prior, but the person calling the pup, runs off and hides. Praise and reward pup for the find! When out on a walk, if you are in a safe place and the pup/dog can be off-leash, hide behind a bush or tree. Watch as puppy tracks your scent to find you. Call him if he needs help! Praise and Treat when he gets to you. This is a great conditioner to teach the puppy to keep you in sight and stick with you. I do this occasionally with my adult dogs for reminders...... If Pup Refuses To Come: Call in high pitched voice. Try not to sound threatening and mad, but firm and in charge: kneel, smile, and clap hands, hold out food treat / pretend treat, OR lie down, kicking legs, hiding your head, OR squeak a toy, OR act like you found something very exciting on the ground, OR run away in slow motion or in place, OR use a leash/long line to guide the puppy to you. Praise as soon as the puppy starts towards you. Treat and play when puppy gets to you. Do not allow puppy not to come! Whatever you allow a dog to do, you are training a dog to do. Try not to chase pup. Dogs love that game and will train you to do it if you let them. If you have to go get pup, approach casually, holding food treat or toy enticement out at the puppy. Look pleasant, not mad. Back up a step or two luring pup towards you with the treat and a happy voice. Always make sure the pup is stepping towards you, so he learns that is what come means. Praise and reward pup for coming!!To Reinforce "the Come" in Dogs that Refuse: This can be done in your backyard or dog park area. Put a long line on the pup/dog. When pup is distracted, call him/her. If he comes, praise and treat. If he ignores you, guide him towards you with the line giving lots of praise. Treat when he gets to you. Then tell him "Go Play!" allowing him to do his own thing, still on lead. Give him a minute, call him. If he comes, praise and treat. If he doesn't, give him a little tug on the line and when he turns towards you, praise like crazy. Smile. Guide him in if necessary. Treat, praise when he gets to you. Repeat this game until the dog is coming to you immediately when you call. End with a "go play." Make this routine a game!
When dog comes to you on long line consistently and is paying good attention to you, let the line drag, assuming you're in a safe place with few distractions, and the dog will not run off or get the line tangled. As the dog is busy and with your eye on the dragging line, get ready to call him. At the same time you call the dog, step on the line. This will cause the dog to stop and look at you. Smile. Instantly praise as the dog turns towards you. Treat when dog gets to you. Then tell him "go play." Repeat several times. As the dog progresses, eliminate stepping on the line. Make this routine a game! If you work at this game daily for a week, you will find that the dog will be coming to you in distraction free areas--- often times without calling him. If you work with your dog he will get better, if you don't, he won't.
Eventually, work at Come with mild distractions, then stronger distractions. Use the long line and treat method to reinforce. The goal, of course, is for the dog to come to you whenever and where ever you call.
*Always* have food treats and/or toy in your pocket for reinforcement with a young pup or adolescent dog.DOMINANT AND ASSERTIVE TRAITS April Rifenburg
Some dogs have more dominant and assertive tendencies than others and may be more difficult for their owners to train, control, and to live with.
Indications
are:
Exuberant & Active
Excessive barking
Refuses to listen or pay attention to you in most situations
May resist or challenge grooming, handling, nail clipping, bathing
May growl or nip when disciplined or asked to do something he does not
want to do
Comes when called only when he wants to
Wanders away from home frequently
Overly territorial
Protective of food dish and possessions
Excessive Leash Pulling
Several of these behavior patterns are indicative of a dog that is the "Pack
Leader." Do the WORKOUT ROUTINE even though your
dog resists. After he is accepting of this procedure, you will both be happier because he
will begin to listen and mind better- and have more respect for you. You will even like
your dog better.....
DO: Make this type of dog sit or down before you give him his dinner, before he comes in
the house, car, gate. Lean over him often. Pet him firmly and with authority. Do lots of
down stays. Do lots of call-backs when on a walk on leash. Play Come Games and Hide and
Seek. Keep treats in your pocket for instant rewards. Praise him for good behavior!
As he is eating his dinner, add a little more food to his dish.
DO NOT: Let this type of dog to sleep on your bed (at least for a while) until his
training is making progress. His desire to be pack leader will increase because he will
think of you as a littermate. If your dog has ever growled at you when sleeping in
your bed, you definitely need to get this dog on the floor, now! Do not let him pull
you around on a leash when you take him on a walk.
DO: Attend an Obedience Class.
DO: Work on Controlled Walking. When out on a walk, keep the leash slack! A dog that pulls excessively is not fun to take on outings, and further, such a dog can hurt your arm or cause you to fall. There are several approaches to solving this problem.
Always use the mildest method necessary to get the job done. What works with one dog, may not necessarily work with another. Be flexible and find the one that works with your dog. If you work with your dog, he will get better........and you will like him better.
Begin by putting treats into your pocket. Collars acceptable are whatever you feel comfortable using. No collar should be pulled up tight on the dog's neck! Keep the leash slack. Have the dog on your LEFT side.
1. Simply stop. Do not move until the dog is calm and not pulling. Start walking again. Immediately stop in place when any pulling begins. The idea is to get the dog to understand that his pulling stops the fun of the walk. This approach will require patience and consistency. When dog is walking nicely with you, praise and/or treat.
2. Change direction. Walk with a strong, confident attitude. Think of Marching! You have got to sport an attitude of your own. Change direction every few steps. Make lots of turns. Tell dog, "Move it" and turn left *into* the dog. Make the dog get out of *your* way by being brisk and assertive. Make it a game, not a punishment. When the dog is walking with you properly, praise and/or treat.
3. Voice correction with direction change. Notify the dog with a voice command just prior to changing direction," Bosco, here!" As he comes with you, praise and/or treat him. Or give a low voice correction such as "ehh, ehh" or "quit" exactly when the dog begins to pull out of control. Then abruptly change direction. Praise when dog is with you.
4. The leash tug or pop. If the above methods fail to change your dogs behavior after a few days, you may have to resort to the leash pop method. This is not going to ruin your dog, in fact it may save his life. Your dog has to learn control in today's society. You wanted the dog as a companion. He won't be a good companion if you cannot take him places. It is paramount that he learn to mind you, his owner.
A "pop" (tug) needs to be a surprise and to be done quickly. It is not abusive and should not be harsh. The pop is simply a flick of the wrist, an attention getter to an overly assertive dog. This little pop is certainly more humane than the cruel choke hold done by allowing a dog to pull excessively into its collar! The trachea can easily be damaged. The pop is done in a manner that is no nonsense and direct. You didn't do this, the dog did! As the dog starts to pull, give the pop AS YOU TURN and go in the opposite direction. (shorten leash with your hands, give a light, quick, pull with a flick of your wrist, then RELEASE immediately so that the leash goes slack.) KEEP WALKING. Do not stop and wait for the dog. The trick is to keep walking with a confident attitude. As the dog comes with you Praise/Treat him! Happy talk as he is walking with you on your left side! Whatadog, Good dog!!
As the dog becomes more willing to walk with you and go in your direction, do some training exercises with him. Call the dog to you while walking, have dog sit in front of you, reach for his collar, praise and treat while holding his collar. Do a "down" and a "sit" and do a "watch me." What a good dog!!
If you cannot walk your dog comfortably after giving these above methods a fair, consistent try, you can use a head collar (Gentle Leader) or prong collar. Both are considered power steering, but must be used correctly!! Seek instruction before using.
BOUNDARY TRAINING
Training a dog to stay on your property requires a tremendous amount of dedication on the
part of the owner. A dog that is fully boundary trained in never to be considered even 95%
reliable. There is always that one situation that may occur possibly endangering the dog
and/or other people or animals.
When I am out in my open front yard, I want my dogs with me. They know I am in
control. They are not to leave the property, not to chase out at things, not to
bark at normal neighborhood occurrences. I expect them to behave and not act
rowdy. I expect them to stop in their tracks when I call. My dogs are
obedience trained and participate in many aspects of my life, which makes boundary
training feasible. They know the rules and the routine. Dogs thrive on
routine.
My dogs are trained
to stay on my property and I trust them 95% of the time. I live in a country location that
I consider "safe." I began this challenge some 28 years ago with a strong
willed, wily Labrador Retriever named Bingo. He and I learned a great deal from each
other. He learned that when I was mowing the lawn, he could leave the property for a trip
around the neighborhood. I learned that I had to watch my dog and be aware of his
actions!!
Each dog that has joined our household has learned the rules of staying on the property.
This is much easier to teach a young pup if there is a boundary trained dog in residence.
Boundary training may take several months of persistence and training.......an complete
dedication on the part of the owner. A neutered dog will have less desire to roam.
I walk the newcomer dog/pup along the perimeter of the property with a leash several times
daily. If the dog steps over the line, I guide him back. I always have treats in my pocket
to reward the dog for coming when called or staying with me when he would rather run off.
When a dog is persistent about going over the "line," he wears a long line so
that I can step on it when necessary to remind him where he belongs. I work at
conditioning the dog to come when called with lots of positive reinforcement and come
games.
Once a dog leaves the property, he will do it again and again to increase his territory
and to enjoy doggy sniffing and exploring. If the dog does leave the property, you have
two choices: a. Call the dog and praise him for coming to you. b. Go
after the dog, leashing him if necessary.
If the dog is a puppy, I guide him home with a treat. If the dog is a juvenile or adult, I get behind the dog and head him back home. If he goes home willingly, fine, I praise him at home with voice and treat. If he has to be put on leash to get him to go home, I walk home briskly with him in tow, no treat, but I do "forgive" him after a few minutes by playing with him.
If the dog is fairly reliable in his training for staying home, is off leash and leaves the property, I will use some negative reinforcement, such as a frowning face/scolding voice, clapping hands, a shaker can, or other noise maker sounding behind him. * If the dog is overly sound sensitive, for sound makers try a rolled up magazine or newspaper slapping against your hand or leg, or a dull sounding shaker (plastic peanut butter jar filled with corks and a few beans).
If the dog is
leaving the property often, he needs more training or he is just not a good candidate for
this situation. The safety of the dog is the most important consideration.
1. Fence as much of the property as possible for safety and convenience.
2. Be aware of the dog when in an unfenced location. You have to watch the
dog!
3. Keep treats and toys handy for rewards. Periodically, call the dog and reward him for
coming to you! Treats, Play, Petting, or Letting him in the house.
4. Make sure dog has playtime with you daily - as often as possible.
5. Give dog raw bones or other chew objects to chew, keeping him busy and satisfied.
(I do not use pig ears, hooves, or rawhide) With young dogs to help them
expend energy, I occasionally toss some kibble out on the patio for them to hunt.
6. Never take your puppy for a neighborhood walk by walking him off your property. Either
carry him or drive him 50-100 feet past the property line or he will consider that space
"his" territory. After he is boundary trained, a leash walk leaving the property
with you will be okay on your command.
7. Take your dog to training classes and to as many doggy activities as you can. A dog
that has a job to do is more content, calmer, and less bored.
8. Know what the neighborhood situation is. Are there Loose Dogs? Children? Pedestrians?
Bicycles? Are Vehicles a danger? Rabbits? You do not want your dog chasing
out!! Many people are very afraid of dogs, let alone an unleashed dog! Be
careful. There are many situations where it is just not wise or practical to allow
your dog to be unfenced. You must always think for the safety of your dog.
9. I do not use shock collars or invisible fencing, so I cannot address that use.
10. Be consistent and ever vigilant. When you cannot observe the dog and be aware of his
actions, bring the dog inside the house or enclose him in a fenced area. Never leave
your dog loose outside without your supervision.
