To begin, you will need a basic bodice sloper pattern, made to your specific measurements. You can make a sloper using Andy Nguyen's sloper engine, or find a good book on pattern drafting at your local library. A good one is "The Costume Technician's Handbook" by Rosemary Ingham and Liz Covey.

You want to make sure that the dart on the front sloper is in the shoulder. If it is in the side, move it by drawing a line up the middle of the dart to the bust point and then another line from the bust point up to the middle of the shoulder.

Cut the lines each up to the bust point, but not through. Slide the piece with the armhole down so that a new dart is created.

 

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